The quaint village of Orsomarso, nestled in the mountainous heart of Calabria, is home to an ancient tradition that lies at the very core of its culture and community. Each year, the villagers come together to celebrate ‘U Mmito ri San Giuseppe’, a feast in honor of Saint Joseph that dates back to the Middle Ages. More than just a meal, ‘U Mmito’ is a ritual that embodies Orsomarso’s enduring values of faith, hospitality, and togetherness.
Through centuries of change, ‘U Mmito’ has remained a beacon of hope, its origins rooted in a time when lords would offer sustenance to serfs who toiled the land. Today, it is a joyous occasion where friends and family gather to prepare and share a meal, unite in silence, and distribute leftovers among those in need. The dishes, stewed for hours over open fires, are infused with the flavor of cherished traditions and the spirit of giving that still defines Orsomarso.
‘U Mmito’ offers a glimpse into the soul of this quiet Calabrian village and its people. Though recipes have been passed down through generations and cookware has evolved over time, the meaning at the heart of this age-old ritual remains unchanged. It is a celebration of community, kinship, and shared blessings that continues to nourish Orsomarso year after year. This is the invitation of Saint Joseph – a call to come together, to break bread, and to remember who they are.
Historical Background
Origin of ‘U Mmito’
The roots of ‘U Mmito’ stretch back to the medieval era, a time when lords ruled the land and serfs toiled under their command. Once a year, during the feast of Saint Joseph, these lords would extend a warm, nourishing meal to their subjects. This act of magnanimity, a beacon of hope amidst the hardships of serfdom, evolved into the tradition we know today as ‘U Mmito’.
Evolution of the Tradition
Over the centuries, ‘U Mmito’ has undergone a remarkable transformation. What was once a gesture of goodwill towards the needy has now become an open invitation, transcending social and economic boundaries. Today, the ‘devota’, or the hostess, invites friends and family to partake in this feast, fostering a sense of unity and togetherness.
The Preparation
Overview of the Preparation Process
The preparation for ‘U Mmito’ is a labor of love, a testament to the devotion and dedication of the people of Orsomarso. The process begins months in advance, with the drying of figs, zucchinis, and peppers in the warm summer sun.
Specifics of the Food Preparation
- Drying of Figs, Zucchinis, and Peppers: The sun-drenched summers of Orsomarso lend themselves perfectly to the drying process. The figs, zucchinis, and peppers are left out in the sun, their flavors intensifying as they lose their moisture.
- Preparation of Bread in a Wood-Fired Oven: As the feast draws closer, the villagers prepare bread in traditional wood-fired ovens, filling the air with the comforting aroma of freshly baked loaves.
- Collection of Wild Chicory and Fennel: The fields around Orsomarso are rich with wild chicory and fennel. These are carefully harvested and used in various dishes during the feast.
- Preparation of Scarola and “Spicatiddi Ri Cavuli”: In the village gardens, scarola and “spicatiddi ri cavuli” are picked, ready to be transformed into delicious dishes.
- Soaking of Codfish and Dried Legumes: The night before the feast, codfish and dried legumes are soaked, preparing them for the next day’s cooking.
Cooking Process
The cooking process for ‘U Mmito’ is a spectacle in itself. Terracotta ‘pignata’ pots are filled with various ingredients and placed next to the glowing embers of the fireplace. As the pots simmer away, the house fills with the tantalizing aroma of the feast to come.
The Ritual
Setting of the Table
The table for ‘U Mmito’ is set with a simple elegance, reflecting the humble origins of the feast. A white tablecloth, cutlery, and a glass of wine for each guest adorn the table, along with a loaf of bread, symbolizing the fruits of the community’s labor.
Role of the ‘Devota’
The ‘devota’, or the hostess, is the heart and soul of ‘U Mmito’. She kneels before each guest, kissing their hand in a gesture of reverence and hospitality. She then removes the bread from the table, making way for the feast to begin.
Role of the ‘Santi’
The ‘Santi’, or the saints, are chosen guests who partake in the feast. They represent the twelve apostles, with ‘San Giuseppe’ at the head of the table. In absolute silence, they taste a spoonful of each dish served to them, savoring the flavors of the feast.
The serving and tasting of the dishes
The dishes are served in a specific order, starting with the salad, followed by the tagliolini, rice, and various other dishes. Each guest is allowed only a taste of each dish, a reminder of the feast’s origins as a meal for the needy.
The significance of silence during the meal
The silence during the meal is a mark of respect for Saint Joseph, the patron saint of the feast. It allows the guests to fully appreciate the flavors of the food and the effort that went into preparing it.
The distribution of the food and bread
At the end of the meal, the remaining food and bread are divided among the guests. They, in turn, distribute it among their family, neighbors, and the sick, ensuring that the blessings of the feast reach everyone in the community.
The Feast today
Changes in the tradition
While ‘U Mmito’ has retained its essence over the centuries, it has also adapted to the times. The pots used for cooking are now made of aluminum instead of copper, and the food is cooked on gas stoves instead of open fires. However, the spirit of giving remains unchanged, with the feast being shared with neighbors and family members.
Modern cooking methods
Modern cooking methods have made the preparation of ‘U Mmito’ easier, but the traditional recipes are still followed. The food is cooked slowly, allowing the flavors to develop fully, and the ingredients are still sourced locally, ensuring that the feast remains a true celebration of Orsomarso’s bounty.
The social aspect of the Feast
‘U Mmito’ is more than just a feast; it’s a social event that brings the community together. It’s a time for friends and family to gather, share stories, and enjoy each other’s company, strengthening the bonds that hold the community together.
The recipes of ‘U Mmito’
The feast of ‘U Mmito’ features a variety of traditional dishes, each with its own unique flavor and significance. These include Tagliolino di San Giuseppe, Riso di San Giuseppe, Zuppa di Fave, Zuppa di Lenticchie, Zuppa di Ceci, Zuppa di Cicerchie, Minestra Calata di San Giuseppe, Baccalà Fritto, “Grispeddi”, “Savuza”, and Pane di San Giuseppe.
The tradition of ‘U Mmito’ is a testament to the enduring spirit of the people of Orsomarso. It’s a celebration of faith, community, and the simple joys of life. As the feast unfolds each year, it serves as a reminder of the village’s rich history and the timeless values that continue to bind its people together.
(Many thanks to Maria Russo for the detailed and precious information about these traditions)
